The basic principle that shoes would indicate its maximum value only when they are worn by people is exactly what people constantly ignore. How to find out the recipe to ones own color matching? The key answer would be “people oriented”.

 

Key words: shoes; color scheme; people oriented

 

Tradition figured heavily in the choice of colors utilized in Chinese garments and shoes. About 300 B.C., during the period known as the Warring States, Li Chi, The Book of Rights, was written. This record of rituals covered all phases of ceremonies and rites in China, and was strictly followed right on through to the end of the Qing Dynasty. There was even a Board of Rites which served to interpret the Li Chi much as our Supreme Court serves in interpreting our Constitution. (This passage paraphrased in Rayne Kruger. This edition published in 2004 “All Under Heaven — A complete history of China”)

 

The Chinese recognize five primary colors — red, yellow, blue (which includes green), black, and white — and each is designated for certain purposes or for use by certain people.

 

Red is the color for all festive occasions such as weddings, anniversaries, and New Year celebrations. Red is also a symbol of virtue. In the classical Chinese theater, a man with a red face is usually a sacred person. The walls of the Forbidden City are red. Collectors of shoes for bound feet find many more red shoes than shoes of any other color. This is understandable, since, from the first pair of shoes made for Kuan Yin’s altar to every special-occasion shoe thereafter, red would have been the color of choice.

 

Up until the fall of the Qing Dynasty, the color yellow was worn only by the emperor and empress and the heir apparent. Everything from their ceremonial clothing to the roof tiles of their palaces to the plates their food was served on was yellow. As Henry Pu Yi, the last emperor of China wrote, “We lived in a virtual golden yellow haze.”

 

Blue had no confining rules. The combination of blue and red (purple), which many Western monarchies considered the royal color, was prescribed by the Board of Rites for the grandsons of the emperor but not for the emperor himself. Purple and bright green were considered suitable for young women, who often wore matching socks and shoes in these colors.

 

Middle-age demanded subdued colors such as blue-gray or blue-green, and black was the color for later years. There was a segment of the population who did not use black, however. Since black is the color of bruising, it was considered by some to be a sign of evil. It was also considered improper for older women to wear red shoes except on birthdays and holidays. (Black later became a very popular color with the chic modern ladies of Shanghai in their younger married years.)

 

White is the color of mourning in China, and there were very strict rules regarding its use. Plainness, such as using undyed material, was the basic idea. There were five degrees or stages of mourning to be observed. For the first period of mourning, immediately following the death of a parent or other close relative, mourners’ shoes had to be made of colorless sackcloth without hem or border. For the second period, a border could be added to the sackcloth. Pure white followed this stage, and after the first month, white shoes with embroidery or other adornment were worn for an extended period of time. Or the mourner could switch into dull blue, black, or gray. If the deceased was a parent, children were expected to adhere to these rules for twenty-seven months. During that period, neither silk shoes nor clothing could be worn, and wearing red was forbidden. (This passage paraphrased in Beverley Jackson. This edition published in 1997 “SPLENDID SLIPPERS — A Thousand Years Of An Erotic Tradition”)

 

How could people apply “personal color analysis” theory to instruct personal dressing? First of all, one needs to learn how to distinguish various “warm and cool” as well as “color shade” of skin.

The keynote of color is related to its three properties, including “hue”, “value” and “purity”.

 

“Hue” indicates the appearance of color, such as red, yellow, blue, green etc. which posses independent color preference. “Warm tone” usually refers to colors that include “yellow hue” as sunshine. “Cool tone” refers to the colors compose “blue hue” as ocean. As for red, which is between cool and warm tone, it could be judged by the proportion of “yellow” (inclined to orange) and “blue” (inclined to purple) to determine its tone. It is the same case to distinguish cool and warm color of skin which appears “warm” when lactoflavine dominates while presents “cool” when heme prevails.

 

“Value” suggests the intensity of color. Among “achromatic color”, known as black, white and grey, white is the brightest color with highest value; Black is the darkest color with lowest value. For grey, it is the gentlest color in between although its value could be conceived through its inclination to white or black. Among “chromatic colors” (the hue with concrete color inclination), for the identical hue, the more white participates in, the higher value appears, while the more black partakes the lower value represents. When it comes to human skin, the lightness and shade composition is decided by the amount of “melanin”.

 

“Purity” implies the pure level of color. The higher purity contains, the brighter color would emerge, while the lower purity means the color would be gloomier. As for human skin, purity could also play subtle role in adjusting “cool and warm” as well as “light and shade”.

 

1. Conditions of color perception

People could experience colorful objects almost all the time that they actually live in a space rich in colors. However there are three indispensable conditions for perceiving these colors: visible light, object and people’s optic system (eyes, optic nerve brain).

 

2. The essence of color

The essence of color is electromagnetic wave, which could be identified as carrier communication, infrared rays, visible light, ultraviolet rays, X rays, r rays and cosmic rays. Electromagnetic wave with wavelength 380 to 780nm is known as visible wave, which could appear seven colors as red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue and violet through triangular prism. Red is featured the longest wavelength with 640 to 780nm while violet is marked the shortest wavelength with 380 to 430nm.

 

3. Light source

The objects emitting light is considered as light source, which could be divided into two category, sunlight and lamplight. Sunlight is unstable, influenced by factors as region, season, climate, time, place, direction. Therefore, utilizing sun as light source, the better time would be during 10 o’clock and 14 o’clock that the sun light from the northern window is comparatively stable with the color temperature of light about 5000 to 6000k. “k” is a unit to for indicating color temperature. As for lamp light, it could be classified into various kinds, such as filament lamp and fluorescent light etc. Short for D65, standard illuminant is a specially originated light source with 6500k color temperature. Standard illuminant, regulated by International Commission on Illumination, rather than influenced by factors as season, time, weather, is necessary equipment for color research.

 

4.    Factors influencing color measuring and color comparison

Sometimes errors may occur during color observation, measuring and comparing. The possible causes are as below:

4.1 Type of light source

Objects with identical color may appear different colors under sun light and lamp light, and even present great reverse under filament lamp and fluorescent light.

 

4.2 Color of light source

Same object appears red color under red light while displays blue color under blue color.

 

4.3 Background of object

Under various color backgrounds, same object would exhibit diverse colors.

 

Light angle

 

Color effects are also influenced by light angle on object.

4.4 Distance and angle of observing object

At observation, the distance and angle of eyes are all factors impacting color.

4.5Experience of observer

Different people hold various feelings towards colors. This principle could apply to people with training and untrained people.

 

Conditions of color measuring and color comparing

 

To reduce errors of color measuring and comparison, three conditions should be born in mind:

4.5.1 Consistent light source

It is better to employ standard illuminant-D65. When one relies on sun light, it is required northern window in room during 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

 

4.5.2 Light angle

Light angle should be 45°.

 

4.5.3 Angle and distance of observer

The distance for observer to object should be 25 to 30mm while the observation angle should be 90°.

 

5.      Color system

When people firstly delivered color information, they only applied hue. As time passes, people began to understand for identical hue, there are still differences in value and purity. To precisely express hue, value and purity of color, it is required to move from quality cognition to quantity cognition toward color and thus color system was gradually invented. The most often used color systems are L*、a*、b* color system, Munsell color system and XYZ color system.

 

5.1 Identical colors scheme

It delivers gentle and elegant shoes.

 

The match of two identical colors with different intensity and purity.

For instance: cyan matches sky blue; dark green matches light green; brown matches cream color; dark red matches light red etc.

 

5.2  Adjacent colors scheme

Similar colors highlight gentle and femininity effect.

 

The match of two similar colors.

 

For example: red and orange, red and purple; orange-yellow and orange; yellow and grass green

 

5.3 Contrast colors scheme

It would produce strong striking visual effect.

 

The match of two colors far away in color wheel.

 

For instance, yellow and purple; red and turquoise

 

5.4 Complementary colors scheme

It delivers sharp contrast, and sometimes would bring sound effect.

 

The match of two contrast colors.

 

For example, red and green, cyan and orange, black and white.

 

Based on the color schemes above, people could choose dress colors according to skin color, disposition, character, occupation, wearing colors that are most suitable for themselves.

 

6 Specific shoes color matching plan

6.1 Contrast colors scheme

It indicates two colors far away in color wheel, for instance, yellow and purple, red and turquoise. As the color matching is strong, therefore, it should measure the part that needs to be emphasized before shoes color matching. However, it is better not match heavy colors like dark brown, dark purple with black. Otherwise, they may overwhelm black that the whole dress would lose focus and meanwhile shoes would equally appear heavy and dusky. On the other hand, yellow and black are the most eye catching match while black and red matching would be exceedingly grand.

 

6.2 Complementary colors match

It illuminates colors that are opposite on color wheel, for instance, red and green, cyan and orange, black and white etc. which could produce sharp contrast and sometimes it may bring fine visual effect. Among those matches, black and white are proved to be eternal classic color match.

 

6.2.1 Identical colors match

It describes the match of two identical colors with different intensity and purity. For example, cyan matches with sky blue; dark green matches with light green; brown matches with cream color; dark red matches with light red. The advantage of identical colors match is the whole impression would be gentle and elegant.

 

6.2.2 Adjacent colors match

It indicates two similar colors that close to each other on color wheel, for example, red and orange or purplish red, yellow and grass green or orange yellow. Take green and bright yellow for instance, it could deliver a feeling of spring that the overall image would be simple but elegant with naturally revealed representation as a glorious lady.

 

7 It is better to apply three properties of color for color scheme.

7.1 Shoes color scheme with value dominant

Choosing identical hues with different values would compose five color matching plans: match with high values, match with analogous values, match with moderate values, match with contrast values and match with low values, which features lucid, fresh, gentle, modest and implicit taste for the whole appearance. For example, white pants match with white or light cream shoes; yellow culottes with beige shoes; calm blue one-piece with strong blue shoes. The characteristic of those matches emphasizes over constancy overall image, especially suitable for office ladies that it could help deliver prudent and mature personality.

 

Unique color with various values should be paid attention to cooperate with accessories, for instance, hat, shoes and jewelry for a eye catching and simple dress look. Meanwhile, as pure color highlight design language and body line, it caters for small and gentle ladies.

 

7.2 Shoes color scheme with purity dominant

The concentration of color purity depends on the amount of grey that the more grey proportion creates colors with the lower purity while the less grey produces the higher purity. Colors with high purity presents eye appealing bright, such as yellow, red, green, blue and purple, preferable for sportswear. Moderate purity colors are generally gentle, stable as desert tan, olive green, violet and orange red, favorable for office lady shoes. For those colors with low purity, it appears obscure and inactive, with which, shoes may represent plain and calm look. Deluxe fabric would grant colors with low purity elegant and composed.

 

7.3 Shoes color scheme with hue dominant

Color scheme of shoes with hue dominant mainly reflects association of two or more than two colors in color wheel which includes three color match plans: match with similar hues, match with contrast hues, and match with complementary hues. Similar hues deliver consistency for overall look with minor vary at particular section (Colors within 60° angle on color wheel are considered as analogous colors, such as adjacent tones composed by yellow, yellow green and orange). Nevertheless, the match with complementary colors could lead to active, strong but hard to mediate effect. As for color scheme of shoes, it could choose one from three colors highlighted with high purity while reduce value and purity of the other two colors to accomplish vivacious and harmonious outlook. On the other hand, complementary colors match is characterized sharp contrast with complementing effect. However, it should bear in mind area ratio of complementary colors match that generally yellow comparing to purple is one to three; orange to blue is one to two and red to green is one to one.

 

To achieve harmonious complementary color match, one could adopt the approach of matching colors embellishing to each other. Take yellow one-piece with purple shoes for example that apply purple bordure at cuff, sleeve, top fly of yellow one-piece to coordinate with the whole look. It could also add a few gold and silver accessories to complementary color match though the ratio of gold and silver accessories should be slight and concentrated, with around 1/10 to 0.5/10 to avoid poor taste. In addition, it is favorable to choose plain fabric in one of two complementary colors, matching with print fabric in both two complementary colors. For instance, baggy jeans in red with red and green print textile Mary Jane shoes are bright colored with expression of substantial decorative purpose.

 

According to various tones, colors in daily life could be identified through hue (warm and cool), value and purity to build four harmonious color groups. Due to each color group coincides with color characters of four seasons in nature, thus people named the four color groups as “Spring” and “Autumn”(warm tone) and “Summer” and “Winter” (cold tone).

 

Scientific research indicates that human body also possesses natural born colors, which are decided by Lactochrome with yellow appearance, heme with red appearance and melanin with dark brown appearance. Lacrochrome and heme determine warm and cool tone of skin while value and purity are controlled by melanin. Representation of other body color characters such as eye color and hair color are also limited by the assemble of those three pigments. Everyone is actually clarified by the set “color properties”.

 

After understanding the standards of hue and value, people could initially distinguish which “season” is desirable to themselves, by a little imagination and careful observation at the blush on one’s face when he/she is elated:

 

Think of spring: bright sunshine, verdancy grass and pink flowers originally on branches...

 

According to the theory of “personal color analysis”, one should choose suitable shoes colors to promote “harmonious” and “unified” elegance of integral image.

 

 

“The person of spring” prefers to warm tone with gentle and soft characters.

　　

It suits “spring person” to have clear, bright, transparent warm tone dressing with yellow color. As for shoes, colors that present buoyant, full of vigor and confident for “the person of spring”, such as light beige, twillery, moderate light brown, turquoise, orange, golden brown, yellowgreen, brilliant orange, sinnamon or ivory should be considered. Ivory, yellowgreen, brilliant orange, apricot pink, apricot yellow, honey, light golden brown are candidates for cosmetic colors. Bronze, light pink, light brown or toffee, color with golden orange, honey or copper red are favorable for hair coloring. Brown, bronze or peach could be considered for spectacle frame while brown or yellow is ideal for spectacle glasses...

 

Apparently certain colors have been mentioned several times. It is normal that as long as light and clear colors contain yellow warm tone, they would never be excessive for “the person of spring”. Even for a little exaggerating identical colors could also be used as ornament at minimal area to reach unexpectedly extraordinary effect. However, strong and thick colors should never be employed, especially for black that although they are attractive, they just do not preferable for “spring person”.

 

“The person of summer” stands for cool tone, characterized as limpid and simple.

 

“Summer person” could be applied with graceful, gentle and implied violet or blue color composed with dim smoky grey. Colors for shoes are mainly cool tone of pastel shade such as powder blue, pink, purple pink, bluegreen and colors with smoky grey, including steel grey, dusty blue, celadon, cameo brown, grey claret etc. as attractive fascinated ocean enlightened by rosy cloud, indicating clam, sensitive, romantic and tender disposition of “summer person”. Pink, taupe, iron oxide red, grey red are ideal for cosmetic colors. Regarding to hair coloring, typical “person of summer” is adaptable for bleaching, dying and highlighting with cool colors as ash black close to black and taupe, celadon. Cinerous or silver is wise choice for spectacle frame while pink rose or prune is ideal for spectacle galsses.

 

In general, the light and gentle cool blue colors are suitable for “the person of summer”. Besides, adjacent colors could also be applied as ornament. Yet one should never use colors with sharp contrast for scheme.

 

“The person of autumn” prefers warm tone with characters as saturated and composed.

 

Warm color group containing golden yellow that is deep, mature, temperate and saturated is favorable for the person of autumn. Primary colors for shoes are mainly sepia, vibrant orange and moss green. In addition, brick red, creamy white, wasabi, cedar green or warm blue colors as purple blue, greenish blue and turquoise that emphasize profound, wealth, honesty, sensitive of “the person of autumn” and meanwhile deliver atmosphere full of vitality. As for cosmetic colors, apricot pink, apricot yellow, honey, brown and bronze. Regarding to hair coloring, all the brown and tan colors of warm tone could be employed, such as dark brown, light brown, golden brown, honey and chestnut color and additionally orange group, golden red and maroon red. Dark brown or bronze could be considered for spectacle frame while tan, dark orange or purplish red is ideal for spectacle glasses...

 

“The person of autumn” desires the dressing with high quality and sophisticated manual work to indicate his elegance and refined manner. Decoration and ornament should also be emphasized. Gradient color in scheme could be tried for fine taste.

 

“The person of winter” features with pure and distinct, representing cool tone.

 

Pure, clean, bright, strong cool color group consisting blue tone composes the color nature of “the person of winter”. All the pure colors, (for instance, plain red, plain blue, plain green and plain yellow), sharp cool colors, (such as pink, claret, violet, sapphire blue), pure black, pure white, silvery grey, navy blue and black brown are colors for “winter person”. Heavy cosmetic colors are most suitable for makeup to reflect striking and refined temperament through sharp contrast. Black, dark brown and dark aubergine could be considered as hair coloring. Cinerous, silvery white or black is favorable for spectacle frame, while blue, grey and red purple could be proper for spectacle glasses.

 

After understanding “the principle of personal color analysis”, one could refer to specific theory during daily shopping and dressing although it requires regular speculation and practice over a long period of time to smoothly utilize it.

 

 

 

References:

 

1.  The Course of Chinese Imagination Regularities.

2.  Dangqi Li. The Introduction to Costume. The Higher Education Press, 1998.

3.  Guozhi Zhao. Composition of Color. Liaoning Art Press, 1994.

4.  Rayne Kruger. All Under Heaven — A complete history of China. voglio quelle scarpe,2004.

5.  Beverley Jackson. SPLENDID SLIPPERS — A Thousand Years Of An Erotic Tradition. TEN

SPEED PRESS, 1997.